Some helpfull and some amusing articles can be found on this page:
A Guide to Caring for Your Puppy
Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Whelping Mastiffs
WHAT IS A BREEDER?
A Breeder(with a capital B) is one who thirsts for knowledge and never really knows it all,
One who wrestles with decisions of conscience, convenience, and commitment.
A Breeder is one who sacrifices personal interests, finances, time, friendships,
fancy furniture, and deep pile carpeting!
She/He gives up the dreams of a long, luxurious cruise in favour of turning
that all important Show into this year’s “vacation”.
The Breeder goes without sleep (but never without coffee) in hours spent planning
a breeding or watching anxiously over the birth process,
and afterwards, over every little sneeze, wiggle or cry.
The Breeder skips dinner parties because that litter is due or the babies
have to be fed at eight. She disregards birth fluids and puts mouth to mouth
to save a gasping newborn, literally blowing life into a tiny,
helpless creature that may be the culmination of a lifetime of dreams.
A Breeder’s lap is a marvelous place where generations of proud and noble champions
once snoozed. A Breeder’s hands are strong and firm and often soiled,
but ever so gentle and sensitive to the thrusts of a puppy’s wet nose.
A Breeder’s back and knees are usually arthritic from stooping, bending, and sitting in the
birthing box, but are strong enough to enable the breeder to show the next
choice pup to a championship.
A Breeder’s shoulders are stooped and often heaped with abuse from competitors, but they’re
wide enough to support the weight of a thousand defeats and frustrations.
A Breeder’s arms are always able to wield a mop, support an armful of puppies,
or lend a helping hand to a newcomer.
A Breeder’s ears are wondrous things, sometimes red (from being talked about)
or strangely shaped (from being pressed against a phone receiver),
often deaf to criticism, yet always fine-tuned to the whimper of a sick puppy.
A Breeder’s eyes are blurred from pedigree research and sometimes blind to his/her own
dog’s faults, but they are ever so keen to the competition’s faults and are always searching for
the perfect specimen.
A Breeder’s brain is foggy on faces, but it can recall pedigrees faster than an IBM computer.
It’s so full of knowledge that sometimes it blows a fuse: it catalogues thousands
of good bonings, fine ears, and perfect heads… and buries in the soul
the failures and the ones that didn’t turn out.
The Breeder’s heart is often broken, but it beats strongly with hope everlasting…
and it’s always in the right place!
Oh, yes, there are breeders, and then there are BREEDERS!!
-Author unknown- courtesy of Michelle Marshall
Congratulations on your purchase of a “Bullstone Bullmastiff”. All our dogs and puppies are a big part of our family and we hope you continue to provide love and care that has been a part of their lives so far.
When you first bring your new puppy home they will need a place of their own to sleep. An old blanket in a quiet corner is all they need to help them to settle quickly. They will need a bit of peace and quiet to help them adjust to their new home.
The first few nights away from their littermates are extremely stressful, so great care is needed at this stage. Place the pup where you want him to sleep and feed him at bedtime, this will help him to settle. DO NOT give in to crying unless you intend to do it for the rest of his/her life. As long as the pup is not cold, hot, hungry or thirsty he will give in a finally go to sleep. Sometimes a cuddly toy or bone to chew is a good idea for comfort for your puppy.
Be patient when disciplining your pup. DO NOT hit or yell as this will just cause them to become timid. A sharp “NO” at the exact time they are doing wrong is all it should take. Always remember to show them what you want them to do and give lots of praise when they do the right thing. Puppies have very short memories and will not even remember that they piddled on the carpet after they have walked away from the mess. Puppies do not have road sense so never let them loose near a road and it is vital that you have a fenced yard.
FAMILIES WITH YOUNG CHILDREN- Please give your pup a few hours a day on their own as pups wear out quicker than children and remember ‘a sleeping pup is a growing pup’. Please supervise play as young children can unintentionally injure a puppy.
Social contact is very important with both people and other animals. But be sure to have pup on a lead and do not introduce him to other dogs until he has had all of his needles. Bullmastiffs are great dogs for kids but, as with all breeds, should never be left unsupervised.
Bullmastiffs are a relatively new breed – only being recognized from the early 1900’s therefore they do suffer from some health problems. Hip dysplasia (HD) and Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD) are the most debilitating diseases. These are hereditary; also some environmental factors can enhance the incidence of the disease. As conscientious breeders will have taken the time and care to try and minimize the risk of HD by having all breeding stock X-rayed and hip scored. As yet, there are no Bullmastiffs that are free of HD.
Bullmastiffs also suffer from entropion (which is rolling of the eyelid) but fortunately this is becoming rare. Hot Spots are another problem with Bullmastiffs. It starts as a wet oozing patch or scab on the fur and eventually the hair falls out leaving a round red spot. It can be caused by to much protein in the diet but is easily treated with a product called Dermacool, available at your vet’s. We’ve also found regular hosing and cleaning of the area greatly improves healing time.
Bullmastiffs can also have a problem with chewing their feet. This is caused by a yeast infection and can be very worrying. It can cause the dog to limp and be very sore in the foot pad area. A product called MALASEB can be used to kill the yeast infection.
FLEAS AND TICKS are a problem to all dogs and some can develop a flea allergy if the coat is infested. We hydro bath our dogs every two weeks with a product called Fido’s Free Itch Rinse. WE have found this to be very effective and are very pleased with it. The rinse is a pyrethrin based insecticide which is much safer than other flea dips. Frontline is also a good product to use as you just dab some on the back of the neck every couple of weeks.
If your dog is unfortunate enough to get a paralysis tick he must be taken to the vet immediately for a shot of antivenin.
Ticks can kill a young puppy or an adult very quickly so do not take any risks.
HEARTWORM – Your pup has already received his first heartworm treatment in the form of heartguard 30. It is a combination heartworm and intestinal worm treatment. The heartworm part works backwards, and actually kills any eggs or larvae already there. We find it much easier to give our dogs a once a monthly treatment than everyday. There are also yearly injections that can be given. Ask your vet for information about heartworm treatment.
C4 INJECTION that your pup has already received at 6 weeks is only a temporary vaccination which builds them up for the 2nd needle which is given at 12 weeks. It is not safe to have them around other dogs unless you know the other dog has been fully immunized. It is not a good idea to take a puppy to the park or some other public place where diseases are easily picked up thru pads or mouth.
PARVO-VIRUS is a common killer in pups and it does this quickly and painfully. If your pup develops any sign of illness, or are off their food, or lethargic it wouldn’t hurt to give the vet a call and ask for advice, never wait where baby puppies are concerned. After pup’s 12 week needle it is quite safe to take him/her out and about.
LEPTOSPIROSIS - This is important for anyone living in the tropics or where there are rats. This is a disease that is spread by coming in contact with inflected rat urine. Dogs like to put there noses everywhere and can get this disease very readily. Your vet will have vaccinations for lepto and it is wise to get it done.
CALCIUM –Our dogs get the calcium they need from the bones and other foods they eat. We prefer to not give them calcium supplements because sometimes it is worse to give them too much calcium. Ask your vet if unsure but if you give them plenty of raw brisket bones, chicken necks, and fish to chew up they should be getting plenty of calcium.
WATER – ALWAYS insure pup has plenty of fresh water. Some pups like to swim in their own water bowls so be ever vigilant to make sure they have clean full water bowls.
FEEDING – Up until now your puppy has had a variety of fresh foods to unsure they have had they very best start in life. Obviously it is up to you what you feed your pup, but to obtain maximum growth and conditioning we recommend that they get a diet of mostly fresh foods. The first year is extremely important to develop the ‘frame’ for which muscle is to be put on. This is essential for the puppy to reach his/her full potential.
Your pup will require 3 meals per day until he is about 3 months old when it can be cut back to 2 until they are about a year old.
Some pups are lactose intolerant but we do use a lactose milk power when feeding our pups. We do water it down somewhat. There is a product called BIOLAC which we have used until they are about 4 weeks old.
MEATS- your puppy has already had a variety of meats including beef, lamb, chicken, roo meat and fish. Also liver and lambs heart. We only feed a very small amount of dry dog food. As we don’t believe processed food is good as a sole diet for them. We mix pasta or rice with their meat meals. Veggies and fruits are also very important part of a dog’s diet and we give them these regularly. Blend the veggies raw and mix with their meat. Cottage cheese and yoghurt is also good. An egg now and then can be a yummy treat.
We do not feed canned food at all. Bones are VERY important to your pup’s diet. For calcium as well as cleaning the teeth. Plenty of raw brisket bones that the pup can chew and eat are the go. We also give chicken wings, necks and carcasses, along with the occasional roo tail. Make sure NEVER to give cooked bones of any kind as these can splinter and cause all sorts of problems to puppy’s bellies. Onions, citrus and any processed foods like bacon, ham, salami or spicy foods are harmful to your pup. NEVER EVER give chocolate as this can be fatal. There is an additive in chocolate that can kill your dog.
This is only a guide but make sure your pup gets a balanced diet by trying to include all the food groups.
IT IS NOT GOOD TO HAVE YOUR BULLMASTIFF PUPPY TOO FAT. Let the puppy tell you how much it needs, let him eat till he is ready to stop. Don’t leave uneaten food, it will make them sick and bring flies.
EXERCISE – Your pup will exercise himself in the backyard and will need no extra walking until he is at least 12 months old. Too much exercise can be harmful to young soft growing bones. Remember let him sleep when he needs it. The old saying “let sleeping dogs lie” is very appropriate where pups are concerned.
*Thank you to Richard and Eva Flugge of Bullbookal Bullmastiffs for their help in compiling this puppy pack*
(And Were Afraid To Ask....Because Everyone Has A Different Answer)
By Robin M. Smith, DVM
As a veterinarian, I had courses in Theriogenology or the study of animal reproduction, so I figured I knew all there was to know about dogs and whelping. I knew that for the most part, dogs don't need intervention in their whelping and that the bitch would always take care of the puppies and the people would have little to worry about because nature takes care of her own. I even lead my early clients into believing this because I truly believed it
Well....In the perfect world, I am sure there are perfect bitches that are perfect whelpers and have perfect puppies and have no trouble at all. Unfortunately, I do not live in this perfect world and most of us do not. We live in the world of Mastiffs....And while I must say, the mastiff is truly the perfect dog, they are also very reliant on us, their humans to take care of them and that means knowing all of their idiosyncrasies. That, my friend is the reason for this article. Over the years that I have been involved with mastiffs, I have found that contrary to all of my veterinary knowledge, they are truly a unique breed. I know many of you have learned the hard way how truly different our mastiffs can be and I do not want to have you change your ways at all. I hope to be able to give some of you helpful information that I have gathered over the years from working with mastiffs and whelping litters of mastiffs in combination with my veterinary background.
In veterinary medicine, we are taught that the normal length of pregnancy is 58-72 days after the mating. Most or all of our breeding in mastiffs are planned breedings and we breed several times to optimize the chances of pregnancy. I usually count the days from the first mating and the last mating and count forward 60 days. This gives me a window to work with. So I will have a window of about 5 days. Over the years, I have learned that some mastiff bitches just do not want to go into labor, and for that reason, I keep an accurate count. A very accurate way to determine due date is if you know the LH peak. With many of us doing progesterone testing and LH testing to optimize breeding, many times we do know this. If it is known, then whelping should occur consistently by days 64-66. I do not want her to go over her due date more than 2 days (or 48 hours) or I will automatically do a caesarian section. I know there are controversies about this and I do not want to get into them here. There are some more less accurate ways to tell when impending labor is close. The "stand by" temperature dropping has not been very reliable to me. Others talk about abdominal enlargement...well, in a mastiff, who can tell this? Other changes are mammary development...again, our mastiffs are great ones in the "false Pregnancy" department, so this is not reliable. Loss of appetite...A mastiff? I do not find this a good indicator either. Some talk about behavioral changes....again, I say..A Mastiff? With behavioral changes? That is every day life...Ha!. While all of these can be indicators of impending labor, I do not put a lot of stock into them. I will use progesterone levels sometimes. The progesterone will drop below 2 ng/ml about 24 hours prior to whelping. The problem is that all of the in-house progesterone kits can not distinguish between 2ng/ml and below 2 ng/ml...and a bitch can actually maintain her pregnancy at 2 ng/ml. So, since the progesterone would have to be sent off and the results not received until 24 hours later...this may not help. I think the best thing to do is to get an exact window for labor and have the bitch watched constantly during this time. And if the pregnancy goes over day 63, I recommend a C-Section.
First, lets discuss the whelping area for your bitch. It should be in an area where there is no draft. Some means of artificial heat is needed. I use a "no chill" lamp in an overhead lamp approximately 4 ft. above the nesting area. Just be very careful the bitch cannot be burned. Some people use hot water bottles for heat and cover them with towels. Bedding should be something that is easily cleaned. I prefer to buy the linoleum sheets for floors and then cover them with bathroom rugs and towels because the backing on the bathroom rugs allows for good footing but they are also easily washed. Some people use shredded newspapers on top of that. The whelping box should be in an area of low traffic.
Okay...we now have your bitch in the whelping box in active labor. How long to wait....what needs to be done...and how do I know if she is in trouble are the questions I get asked.
The first stage of parturition is the 2-3 days prior to whelping and is when the bitch is restless and shows nesting behavior. The beginning of straining, or the appearance of fetal fluid or a pup at the vulva, marks the change from first to the second stage. During the first stage, the bitch may shiver, vomit, begin panting, bite at flanks, lick her vulva and generally feel uncomfortable. All what I have just mentioned are textbook pregnancies. From my experience with mastiffs, I find they do not exhibit all of these signs. In fact, I have seen some mastiff bitches look absolutely comfortable one moment and the next moment...out comes a puppy and she didn't even look like she was in labor. I think that this has to do with the size of the mastiff. Because of their large bodies, the uterus may be contracting but it is not very visible to the outside of the dog. That is why I always have someone watching the bitch all of the time. I have even known a mastiff bitch that went outside to potty and squatted and it wasn't urinating, it was having a puppy. So always, be alert and one good rule of thumb...carry a flashlight with you at night when walking a bitch that is due to whelp.
Now we are in the second stage of labor....this is where there is the amnion (water bag) of the first pup coming out of the vulva. (This is where owners start panicking). It doesn't make a difference if the head comes out first or the tail. Both are considered normal in the bitch. I will first discuss this stage as though the world were perfect and our mastiffs never had any trouble whelping at all, then we discuss things that happen in the "hell birth". After the birth of the pup, the bitch will lick and rupture the amnion, and rupture the umbilical cord. Further licking will help to dry the pup and stimulate it. The bitch will usually try to eat the placenta and from experience, they are very quick to go for it. It is not necessary that she do so and it will cause diarrhea later, so I try to discourage it (fight her for it). The interval between puppies is variable. Hopefully, you have had a radiograph about a week or so prior so you know how many puppies to expect. It is often difficult to decide when a problem has arisen; but as a rough guide, unproductive straining for 30 minutes may indicate an obstruction, although a normal pup may be born after this time. If more pups are expected and the bitch is restless, will not let the pups suck for long, but is not straining, about 2 hours may elapse without trouble ensuing. I do not let the bitch go over 2 hours before intervention.
I find that many of our mastiff bitches do not have to have hard labor in order to get into trouble. My theory is that with large litters, the uterus will do fine contracting for a few births and then it wears out and trouble may ensue. With small litters, there may not be enough hormonal stimulation to finish whelping. I am very pro-caesarian section due to these situations. I have been involved in many mastiff whelpings and have found that in large litters, the bitch may do great delivering the first 4 or 5 pups but then never has any more contractions, or has contractions and nothing happens. I have taken these bitches to surgery at this time and in a few of them I have found their uterus has become very stretched and on the verge of rupturing. And the time it takes to get the bitch loaded up and into surgery in my case, since I am a veterinarian, is not very long. But for most of you, it would involve calling your vet, etc. and this can take time. While I know a lot of you think that C-sectioning is not natural and is promoting "bad" breeding animals, I must disagree. But, everyone must do what he or she feels is the best especially for the bitch. My feeling is that we are manipulating the breeding already by selecting the parents and breeding at optimum timing, etc. so we are already taking a lot away from nature in the first place. Again, I am not here to argue c-section or not, I am just letting you know when I intervene and when I get worried. I am sure you all have very good veterinarians and hopefully have good relationships with them so as to be able to call them when you are worried.
Again, what I described above as the second stage of labor is the textbook case. The bitch doing all the work. Well, if you have lived around mastiffs enough, you know they hate to work and they look at us with those big brown eyes and say, "Help me...I have no idea what is going on". So we do. I am sure some of you have experienced whelpers who are textbook..great...I envy you. But I have found that when the first pup is born, many mastiffs just look at it and go...what now? I will remove the sac from around the puppy and I will tie off the cord with thread. If the bitch is willing, I will let her lick and stimulate it. But, as many of you know, sometimes the puppy is not breathing well or is very full of fluid so we must intervene. I vigorously rub the puppy with a towel and hold it upside down while doing this to expel fluid from the mouth and nose. I know many of you use the "fling" technique where you hold the puppy firmly with head down in-between your hands then "fling" the puppy downwards in attempts to expel fluid from the lungs. This is a great method, UNTIL you fling a puppy across the room. SO, I now use the "puppy aerobic" method that was taught to me by a close friend and long time bullmastiff breeder. I hold the head of the puppy in one hand and the butt in the other with the legs downward or facing the floor and "bend" the puppy. I do this very rigorously. This will cause the diaphragm to push on the lungs and expel fluid. It also makes them squeak which is a noise I like to hear. If needed, I always have some dopram (a respiratory stimulant) on hand and put a few drops under the tongue just in case. As you are aware by now, mastiff breeders are really weird people. At least that is what I have been told about myself because I have been known to put my mouth around the puppies nose and mouth and suck out some of the fluid when a puppy gets in trouble. It is not for the faint at heart, but works great. Remember, nobody said this would be easy. I then put the puppy on the mom to suckle, as the suckling will stimulate contractions. Be careful though and supervise the mom always, they can get nippy and aggressive to the puppy. They can also bite the pup too hard.
I also will put a ribbon around the puppy, weigh it and sex it prior to putting it on the mom.
As I stated, it is not a perfect world and we do get into trouble at times with our mastiffs. Dystocia is termed as any problem, which interferes with normal birth. The two most common causes of dystocia are obstructive and primary uterine inertia. Obstructive dystocia is any problem, which causes unproductive straining; due to malpositioning of a pup, fetal oversize or a blockage in the reproductive tract. Each of these requires a C-section. DO NOT LET UNPRODUCTIVE straining go longer than 30 minutes.
Primary uterine inertia is the absence of uterine contractions. The uterus relaxes but pups do not enter the vagina and there is not sign of parturition-IF untreated the puppies will die. The cause is unknown but may be due in our mastiffs to small number of pups, thereby producing inadequate stimulus to initiate parturition. Or a very large litter causing overstretching of the uterus and preventing myometrial (uterine) contractions. That is why it is so very important to know the correct date for whelping.
There is also secondary uterine inertia, which I have encountered in mastiffs. This is the cessation of uterine contractions after they have started, presumably due to exhaustion of the uterine muscle. Sometimes this is the hardest to diagnose since there is normally some uterine relaxation after delivering a puppy. Just how long is too long? If it goes over 2 hours or if the next pup is dead, I immediately take to surgery. Also if the last puppy out had a lot of fluid in the lungs or was already out of the sac when it was delivered and I do not have another puppy within 30 minutes to maybe an hour, I take to surgery. This could mean that there is premature separation of the placentas and the puppies are getting into trouble.
If there is nonproductive straining for a period of 30 minutes but no longer than 1 hour, I take action. The first puppy may live for 6 hours after the onset of straining, but subsequent puppies usually die if they are not delivered after 1-2 hours of straining. So, if you wait 2 hours, it may already be too late, that is why I only give a 1 hours maximum time and usually I am on it in 30 minutes. What to do? I will put on sterile gloves and exam the vagina. If nothing is felt in the vagina-I do a C-section. If amnion (sac) felt, I will push up on the abdomen with my other hand and stimulate the dorsal wall of the vagina, which can cause contractions. If there is a puppy stuck, I will do a C-section. If I can feel the puppy and am pushing on the abdomen with my other hand, I can sometimes manipulate the puppy into position. I will sometimes push the puppy back into the uterus and this may be all that is needed to get the puppy turned correctly. I will sometimes grab the mouth and gently...GENTLY pull on it to see if I can help extract it. Pulling on the legs or the tail will many times disarticulate the limbs or tail. I do a C-section if no progress is made in 15 minutes or the bitch becomes distressed or there are a lot of pups left in the uterus. Only attempt this if you are experienced. You can really cause some serious vaginal trauma if you are not careful.
Some people advocate the use of oxytocin. I do not. If no pups have been born, you cannot determine if the cervix is open or not in our mastiff bitches. Their size alone does not allow for palpation of the cervix. This can only be determined by endoscopy. If you give oxytocin to a bitch with a closed cervix, you can cause fetal death or even uterine rupture. Oxytocin causes the uterus to contract very violently. I have seen the use of oxytocin cause uterine inertia. I do not use it anymore. What if a placenta does not come out with each puppy? The placenta is usually passed within 20 minutes of each puppy. Retention of placentas is suspected if a green/black discharge persists after parturition. If suspected, this is the one time I will use oxytocin to get the membranes expelled. I will also put the bitch on cephalexin 10 mg./lb twice a day for 10 days. If the discharge continues, you may need to have your bitch ultrasounded to make sure that a pyometra isn't developing.
Caesarian sections are becoming more popular so as to avoid problems during whelping. I will tell you how I perform them. I will shave and prepare the bitch's abdomen prior to anesthetizing. I put an intravenous catheter in. I use propofol injectable for induction purposes. It is a drug that has been used a long time in human medicine and has just become popular in veterinary medicine. Propofol is metabolized primarily in the lungs so it has a very short half-life in the dog. It causes minimal depression in the puppies. I give it at 3 mg/lb. or at least that is the dose I draw up. I give it to effect. In other words, I give enough of it to allow putting an endotracheal tube into the dog so I can hook them up to gas anesthesia; notably, Isoforane. I then surgically enter the abdomen and bring the uterine horns out of the body. I make as many incisions into the uterine wall as needed to get the puppies out. Veterinarians are taught to "milk" the puppies out of one incision in the body of the uterus. I find that a mastiff puppy cannot easily be "milked" and may tear the uterus trying. I have not found any problem with multiple incisions. And on subsequent C-sections in bitches, I have not seen adhesions being a problem. I will remove the sac from the puppy and clamp the cord and hand the puppy to an assistant who them ties the cord and works on the puppy. Each puppy is treating in this fashion. I also make sure that I remove all placentas. After removal of all puppies, I will suture all incisions in an inverting manner with 2-0 PDS suture material. I then flush the abdomen copiously with warm saline and then I inspect the rest of the abdomen since I am in there. I then close the abdomen routinely. The bitch is recovered fairly quickly and we put the puppies on her to suckle once before transporting home.
I also monitor the bitch on an EKG and pulse oximeter while in surgery. I will also run 1 Liter of fluids during the surgery. I always put the bitch on antibiotics afterwards.
None of the treatments mentioned in this article are absolutes. Each bitch is different and will react differently to being pregnant. I cannot stress enough the importance of a good veterinarian relationship when you are breeding mastiffs. While mastiffs are dogs, they are unique in some of their problems due to being giant breed dogs. Working with your veterinarians will be a learning experience for both of you. If your veterinarian isn't willing to talk with you about your concerns, find one that will. Don't wait until your bitch is in trouble to talk to your veterinarian. Make them aware of what you are doing and make sure they are available or have someone who will be during this time. It is stressing enough to have puppies, let alone having to find a veterinarian at the last minute if trouble occurs.
I hope this article has helped you to understand some of the problems you can encounter during whelping and when to get concerned and call for help. If you have any particular questions, feel free to call or write me and I will try and help.
Robin M. Smith, DVM
490
(410) 442-2988 - home
(410) 848-3363 - work
e-mail: RocknRob56@aol.com
by Dr Karen Hedberg BVSc
The French Bulldog, is on the whole, a fairly sound dog with a few structural problems that need to be noted and that breeders need to be aware of. Being a brachycephalic breed that is fairly short and compact with a screw tail, the “Frenchie” is prone to the associated problems these conformational characteristics will bring.
Body - While small in size, the Frenchie is incredibly solid for its height and weight, which to the uninitiated, can be very deceptive. The breed is a miniature mollossoid (mastiff), in that a large head and solid body is called for. The height at the shoulder relative to the bone and muscle weight ratio is phenomenal when comparing this breed to almost any other. Males ideally should weight around 14kgs, bitches around 12kg.
Despite their small stature, the strength of the Frenchie holds it in very good stead. The strength of bone and generally good ligament strength makes them quite a hardy breed, unlikely to break bones or injure themselves, even though they play fairly hard. Launching off beds and chairs even while quite young, rarely causes any damage – only heart attacks to the owners!
The French Bulldog is also incredibly agile on the whole, able to spring up onto sofas, chairs, lounges, beds etc in a single bound – usually without having to back off and take a run at it. In play, they often jump up in mid air, turn 180 degrees and come down facing the other direction. Chasing and playing with bigger dogs is no problem. As they are fairly easy going, they don’t generally start fights, but are quite willing to give an opinion on whom they are backing and will line up in support.
When lifting this breed, one should be careful to shift the majority of the lift to just behind the shoulders due to the front-heavy head and chest of the breed. As they trust you totally, they are very good at throwing themselves forwards in your arms – be prepared and have them securely held at all times.
Temperament - The breed was developed to be a comical and affectionate companion – whether you wish to put affection before the humour is your decision! These are incredibly easy going dogs and are very easy to live with, once the stubborn little darlings are fully house trained! They are easily spoiled rotten and are good natured enough to deal with this very well, and take it as their due. This should not however, extend to you being unable to hold them for an ear clean or nail cut – some discipline is needed, and you will need to be firm at these times – teach them early or it won’t sink in.
Lifespan - The Frenchie is on the whole, a reasonably healthy breed and lives between 12-16 years of age, and usually has a good old age with minimal diseases.
Cleft palate/hare lips - The combination of brachycephalic head, short body and screw tailed nature of the breed makes the incidence of midline defects more frequent. Cleft palates and hare lips are the most common defect seen. Anasarca (walrus/fluid) puppies are seen but are infrequent, the incidence of spina bifida is very low. Breeders often supplement the bitch during pregnancy with extra folic acid (Vitamin B6) and zinc to reduce the chance of having any midline defect affected puppies.
Hemivertebrae – various congenital abnormalities of the vertebrae are seen in short backed brachycephalic screw tailed breeds. These are more commonly seen affecting the thoracic (chest) vertebrae and generally do not result in severe spinal cord deviation or narrowing, nor appear to be a cause of major problems in later life.
The defects in the lumbar area where there is a definite kinking or twisting on the spine, these defects are much more likely to have detrimental effects on the caudal spinal cord of the puppy as it develops.
Excessively short bodied puppies tend to have more defects of the spine than the longer bodied puppy. Severe deviations as a result of the hemivertebrae will cause problems, but these are of relatively low incidence. Where they occur, these individuals should ideally not be bred from.
Ideally, one would be advised to X ray the spines of French Bulldogs prior to breeding to at least know what level of hemivertbrae is present and to screen out those dogs with severe defects. Puppies can be checked from a young age (6-8 weeks ) if a severe defect is suspected. For breeding purposes, an X ray around 12-15 months would be a good time to check the dogs – need a lateral view and a DV view (down through the middle - one can usually get the hips on the same view if needed) to get a clear picture.
Hip Dysplasia – the breed is generally fairly sound in this area if the ligaments are tight. If concerned, screen hips prior to breeding (over 12 months). Excessively loose and or shallow hips should ideally not be bred from.
Knees/Stifles - generally very sound, some cases of slipping patellas – not very common, seen more frequently in combination with very straight stifles and loose ligaments.
Back problems – not uncommon in the older Frenchie (5-6 years and up). This is most commonly as the result of intervertebral disc problems, which can cause hindquarter paresis (incoordination, scraping of the hindfeet), to severe cases where the hindquarters are totally paralysed. X rays are usually required and most respond well to ongoing anti-inflammatory treatment. There is a suspected inherited component to this problem in the breed. Most dogs respond well to rest and arthritis medication without requiring surgery.
Spondalytis – not uncommon to see degenerative changes along the spines of the older dogs. These respond well to treatment.
Brachycephalic Airway syndrome
This is a syndrome with a combination of a long soft palate, narrow nostrils, everted laryngeal saccules and under development and narrowing of the trachea. The most common finding in all cases is the long soft palate.
Signs of respiratory distress, very noisy breathing, decreased exercise tolerance and heavy snoring are all common symptoms. Warm/hot/humid conditions, increased weight, exercise, excitement, allergic reactions - all of these are added risk factors that can result in severe respiratory distress and possibly death if not treated.
Treatment of affected dogs usually involves removing part of the soft palate, allowing a freer passage of air into the lungs. This operation will usually improve the airway flow by at least 60%, care should still be given with these dogs in regards to weight, exercise, hot weather etc.
The percentage of French Bulldogs affected with this condition varies according to the bloodlines involved. Overall percentage seen that are severely affected would in my estimation be around 10%. The majority of the severe cases are seen under 1-2 years of age. The odd older dog that is diagnosed as having significant obstruction of the airways often was marginally affected as a youngster and may have developed secondary problems such as obesity and/or hypothyroidism (which can also cause obesity).
Severely affected dogs should be surgically corrected and ideally, not bred from. If used, it should only be to sound partners with no history of problems themselves and preferably where the parents are also sound.
Management of Brachycephalic Breeds in Hot Weather
Because all brachycephalic breeds have varying degrees of the predisposing anatomical features of airway obstruction, even if it is subclinical, it is appropriate to treat all brachycephalic breeds as having the potential for upper airway obstruction. It is worth remembering that with the shorter face, the less the air will cool before it reaches the lungs.
Predisposing Risk Factors - Heat, humidity, exercise, excitement can all increase panting as the dog attempts to loose heat and cool itself – this excessive panting in turn can produce local swelling (oedema) and further airway narrowing, increasing anxiety and body temperature; creating a vicious cycle.
Treatment - If panting hard, cool the dog all over by hosing the dogs down in a bath or a wading pool. Pay particular attention to the head, throat and belly. Do not attempt to make the dog swallow – ice packs placed along the belly, under the throat will help cool the dog – keep going for a minimum of 10-15 minutes, until the respiration rate slows down. If the dog is still having problems, get the dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Keep the car air conditioned with the cold air directly in the face of the dog.
Prevention – be aware of the temperature on a daily basis, weather forecasting generally will give a good idea well ahead of hot weather. Place your dogs on extra electrolytes in their food – this can help them cope with the heat better. Keep your dogs in cool conditions with plenty of through ventilation. Extremely hot weather – the more affected dogs may need to be kept in air conditioning. Fans, wet towels on the floor etc can all be useful items to leave out on hot days.
Care in needed with Anaesthetising or Sedating Brachycephalic breeds
With any brachycephalic breed there must be particular care taken with anaesthetics and the use of sedatives and your veterinarian should be well aware of this.
There can be a closing off of the trachea and soft palate obstruction when brachycephalic dogs are sedated or anaesthetised, so extra care must be taken when undertaking either procedure. The level of care needed is high, and these dogs must be kept under close observation from the time they are anaesthetised until they are fully out of the anaesthetic and are capable of holding their heads up.
The majority of these breeds are pretreated with Atrophine to dry out the mucous surfaces and ideally the anaesthetic agent should be of short duration. The head is kept in an extended position, particularly while recovering and the dog watched very carefully for a good 10-15 minutes after the endotracheal tube is removed.
Sedation over and above the anaesthetic used, particularly with sedatives that lower the blood pressure (eg. Acetylpromazine ‘ACP’) and/or any compound that prolongs the effects of the anaesthetic, are not desirable and should ideally not be used.
The safest sedative to use if a dog is anxious while recovering from an anaesthetic is Valium*, as it calms the dog without dropping the blood pressure, or relaxing the upper airway muscles.
Eyes
‘Cherry eye’ an everted (rolled out) 3rd eyelid with the gland underneath exposed – this occurs usually secondary to loose eyelids and inflammation of the eye. Usually seen over 6 weeks and under 6 months of age. Low incidence as most Frenchies have tight eyelids.
Corneal ulcers are not uncommon as Frenchies age, due partially to the prominent nature of their relatively large eyes. These respond well to treatment, provided it is prompt and effective. Any ulcer that fails to respond to treatment quickly needs to be reassessed frequently by your veterinarian and may require surgery in the form of a third eyelid flap to rest the eye while it heals.
Pannus – deposition of black pigment on the cornea and subsequent drying (dry eye) of the cornea. Seen in the older Frenchie (8 years and up). This is considered to be an autoimmune condition in many breeds. Once the black pigment starts to deposit on the cornea, usually in the medial edge and accompanied by inflammation on the outer edge of the pigmented area, it cannot be stopped but can be controlled for long periods. Eventually the pigment will cover the entire cornea, resulting in blindness – this process usually takes several years.
Treatment - the condition responds well to the use of cortisone drops and/or Cyclosporin* eye drops. Liquifilm eye ointment to keep the cornea moist is needed in the more advanced cases. Interestingly, most cases I have seen have also been affected by hypothyroidism. Incidence around 10-15% in the aged Frenchie.
Thyroid
Hypothyroidism does occur in the breed - there is a small but significant percentage of hypothyroid French Bulldogs seen in general practice – probably around 8-10% in older dogs, generally over 5-6 years of age. Symptoms seen generally include bilateral hair loss and thinning of the coat, low fertility (less common) and obesity.
Treatment involves replacing thyroid hormones and regular checks initially to ensure the condition is under good control. Within 6 weeks most dogs are under very good control.
Skin Conditions
Other than thyroid problems, skin health is generally very good. Some cases of grass allergy are seen where dogs will bite and chew their feet – this is more commonly seen in pied dogs. The dogs respond to appropriate treatment and ideally, there should be decreased assess to wet, fast growing green grass.
Despite this, the bitches generally handle caesarians very well, recover radidly and mother up quickly. A small but steadily increasing percentage of bitches are “free whelping” and breeders are actively trying to select for free whelping bloodlines.
Testicles
Male Frenchie puppies are occasionally affected by cryptorchidism, but the incidence on the whole is relatively low. If the testicles are nearby but not fully descended, add extra zinc to the diet and decrease the weight on fat puppies.
French Bulldogs are not high on the tumour lists and usually not under 8-10 years. The tumours more commonly seen would include:-
Haemangeosarcoma – of the spleen or liver;
Skin tumours – mast cell, squamous cell tumors, melanomas – more commonly seen in older pied animals.
Bone tumours – fairly rare.
Mammary Tumours – as in all breeds of dogs, these are commonly seen in the older non desexed bitch. Desex your bitches as soon as they have finished being bred from – this will greatly decrease the incidence of mammary tumours and remove the risk of pyometra.
References:-
Willis – Gentetics of the Dog
Clark/Stainer – Medical & Genetic Aspects of Purebred Dogs